After a week in Paris, we took a 3hr train ride down to Marseille. We had been 'warned' about the noise, but it didn't take us long to fall in love with the South. Harnessing a warm and unpretentious energy, the people (and their food) will forever be a highlight. A few pinch-me moments, arriving at places we'd only spent our whole lives aching to experience.

Below is our guide to the South: including Marseille, the French Riviera, and Saint Paul de Vence. Bathed in autumn light, with temperatures warm enough to swim in the sea, and where the food's main ingredient was sunshine. Take us back here anytime.

Tuba Club — The drive there was stunning, snaking along the coastline, the afternoon moon flashing into view on each corner. The vibe here was very relaxed. We took in the view from their balcony which scaled the rockface, the sea pounding against it, spraying us in salt as the sun went down. The restaurant was filled with young families (who we suspect were also guests at the hotel here); newly acquainted lovers; waiters with trays of fresh fish pacing into the kitchen. We could only imagine how fresh the seafood was given Tuba Club's location.

A negroni felt like the right drink to order at this place, followed by clams in nduja, ceviche with green radish, a fresh green salad bathed in lamb's ear, chives, tarragon and dill, and fried calamari. Exceptionally delicious, this was by far a stand out meal for us. We finished on a fresh fig tart, which was as beautiful as it was yummy. We easily could have returned the following evening. Highly recommended.

La Mercerie — We had booked a table here, in advance, after many recommendations from friends. The night we went, we sat down, and the waiter informed us that it was a five-degustation set menu tonight, so the food would just arrive. Perfect. The restaurant started to hum, wine was being poured, big groups of guests came through, and the open bar kitchen offered us a chance to see the chefs at work. The music was great too - enough so that we had to dart to the bathroom to Shazam the playlist!

The wonderful waiters started by serving us ceviche with mango and chilli - outrageously good. Then a radicchio taco hosting fresh tuna and fried shallots. Roasted (and still warm) beetroot with whipped labneh, grapefruit juice and chive. The main course was pork with barley and chanterelle mushrooms over a green sauce. And the fifth course: dessert, was a raspberry gelato with a biscuit wafer, a silk panna cotta topped with a stewed fig. All small portions left us satisfied and full.

Maison Empereur — This store has been on our to-see list for years. Set up as a traditional hardware store, it offers cookware, home supplies and antique French toys.

On the top floor, specialty boutiques that seem to be run individually offer vintage textiles, ceramics, and crafts from the Provence area, as well as classic French garments such as chore jackets, silk scarves, wool blazers and slippers. Everything was tempting... Maison Empereur, 4 Rue des Récolettes, 13001 Marseille.

Fondation Maeght — We walked by foot into the grounds of Fondation Maeght, greeted by life sized sculptures by Miro. Gorgeous doors opened to the museum of modern art on the Colline des Gardettes, a hill overlooking Saint-Paul de Vence.

We wandered through the exhibition Jean Paul Riopelle - Essence of studios, then out into the sculpture garden and courtyard, and into the tiny chapel. Both playful and architectural, it was an experience for the senses. Fondation Maeght, 623 Chem. des Gardettes, 06570 Saint-Paul-de-Vence.